Heidi Ellison
Le Galopin
Brother Act Brings on the Bobos
For many years, the Place Sainte Marthe, one of Paris’s little treasures, has been frequented by an uneasy mix of bohemians (not quite bobos, or bourgeois bohemians) and drug dealers. There have always been a few trendy, inexpensive cafés and … Read More
Le Camion qui Fume
BURGER MADNESS
It’s a phenomenon: Paris’s first gourmet food truck, if you can call a hamburger gourmet food (for the purposes of this article, let’s agree to do so). The other night, we braved the cold to line up for an hour … Read More
Le Havre
Outsider Filmmaker Finds Inner Beauty in French Town
Le Havre is a hybrid film in more ways than one. Made by a Finnish director in French and set in France, it is an old-fashioned fairytale about a very timely issue, illegal immigration. Director Aki Kaurismäki, known for his … Read More
Vive le Cinéma
The cinema rules in France. In 2011, French movie theaters had their best year since 1966, with ticket sales of 215.6 million, an increase of 4.2 percent over 2010, according to the Centre National du Cinéma. Sales to French films … Read More
Le Pas Sage
A-plus for Good Behavior
If any street in Paris is pas sage (not well behaved), it is the Rue Saint Denis, famous for its sex shops and ladies of the night lurking in doorways. The sex shops and ladies are still there, but perhaps … Read More
Autolib’
SILVER ‘BLUECARS’ A potential user tries unsuccessfully to sign up for a silver Autolib’ Bluecar, which can be seen outside the window. Paris launched Autolib’(“lib” for “liberté”), the motorized counterpart to the Vélib’ bicycle-rental scheme, on Monday, allowing subscribers … Read More
La Balançoire
The kids have got it right at La Balançoire. Pros: solicitous service, lighthearted atmosphere, generous spirit Cons: none La Balançoire, a new bistro in Montmartre, has a juvenile nostalgia theme going for it: one of the seats is a real … Read More
Capitaine Fracasse
FLOATING DINNER
Having never before tried one of those dinner boats plying the Seine, I recently tested the new menu created by chef Martial Enguehard (Meilleur Ouvrier de France, formerly of Lucas Carton and the Crillon) for the Capitaine Fracasse. The food … Read More
Au Passage
Not much has changed at Au Passage over the years except the food. Pros: happy atmosphere; delicious, inventive food; reasonable prices and sound levels; good service Cons: better ventilation needed in the kitchen It is highly unlikely that you would … Read More
Impressionist Gallery, Musée d’Orsay
GOOD IMPRESSION The new Impressionist gallery at the Musée d’Orsay. © Musée d’Orsay/Sophie-Boegly The spacious, newly renovated Impressionist gallery at the Musée d’Orsay is a huge improvement over the old one. The paintings pop out dramatically and glow with color … Read More