Heidi Ellison
Picasso: Blue and Rose
When Picasso Had the Blues
Just as I was going into the exhibition “Picasso: Bleu et Rose” at the Musée d’Orsay, a man who was on his way out said to me: “I envy you. You’re going to have a wonderful experience.” His face was … Read More
Grive Restaurant
Back to the Source
Full disclosure: I went to the restaurant Grive with a friend who happens to be the mother of the chef. You will just have to take my word for it that this is an impartial review. I was worried about what … Read More
Paris Street Furniture Breakdown
The Uglification of Paris
In principle, I am a supporter of Paris’s current mayor, Anne Hidalgo, who is up for re-election next year, but I strongly resent the way she has allowed the introduction of so many ugly elements into the streets of … Read More
Miró
Poet of Painting
As I discovered when I visited the Fundació Joan Miró in Barcelona, a lot of Miró can sometimes be too much Miró. I soon got bored with the repetitiveness of the paintings on show there, all with similar colors and full … Read More
Sauvage Restaurant
Where the Wildly Good Things Are
Note: The chef at Sauvage at the time this was written, Jonathan Schweizer, can now be found at the Café Les Deux Gares in Paris’s 10th arrondissement. There’s nothing particularly wild about the restaurant Sauvage, but it is rather difficult … Read More
Paris Update Events 10.10.18
Through October 14 Montmartre grape harvest Montmartre goes all out to celebrate the Fête des Vendanges, with a parade, exhibitions, workshops, concerts, special menus in restaurants, wine tastings, a ball and more. Various locations, Paris October 11-20 Shakespeare condensed The British … Read More
Giacometti: From Tradition to Avant-Garde
Becoming Giacometti
How did Alberto Giacometti (1901-66) become the superstar sculptor whose spindly statues are instantly recognizable by just about everyone? The exhibition “Giacometti: From Tradition to Avant-Garde” at Paris’s Musée Maillol helps to answer the question with an ambitious show tracing … Read More
Paris Update Events 03.10.18
October 6 All-night art Nuit Blanche is an all-night festival of outdoor art events, plus special happenings in museums, which stay open late for free. The spotlight this year is on collective works. Various locations, Paris October 10-14 Montmartre grape … Read More
Sur Mer Restaurant
Fishing Expedition in the Tenth Arrondissement
This restaurant’s name, Sur Mer, means “at sea,” and when I ate there the other night I felt as if I were afloat on a sea packed with delicious fishy treats. Five of us had gathered for a meal in … Read More
Caravaggio in Rome: Friends and Enemies
The Sacking of Rome's Caravaggios
Rome has been pillaged, stripped of many of its precious paintings by Caravaggio! Whodunit? The Musée Jacquemart-André in Paris, to the great joy of Parisians and visitors to the city, who for a time can have the thrill of seeing no … Read More