Richard Hesse
L’Atelier du France & Au Dernier Métro
Excess Taken to two Extremes
One of the perks of being a reviewer is that I occasionally get invited to openings and, also occasionally, I am so charmed by the place and the people that I want to write about them despite … One of … Read More
Moustache
The food at Moustache offers a judicious fusing of East and West. Pros: Good ingredients, original fusion of traditions, pleasant decor Cons: Not in my neighborhood, a bit pricey The second time I went to eat at Moustache, my … Read More
Saturne
Saturne is as good as all the reviewers have been saying. Pros: Great food, nice space Cons: Noisy Saturne has been an instant hit. I overheard J.P. Gené, food writer for Le Monde, mention its opening on a Tuesday a … Read More
Chez Georges
The generous eggs-mayo at Chez Georges came with a garnish of sliced tomatoes. On a steaming day back in July, I sank gratefully into my seat in the comfortably air-conditioned back room at Chez Georges, an old-style, seemingly eternal … … Read More
Spring
Chef/owner Daniel Rose garnishes dishes at his restaurant Spring, now reopened in the first arrondissement. Pros: Great food, good service, plenty of space, attractive decor. Cons: Slight problem with the kitchen cleaning arrangements and, snob that I am, location: the … Read More
Racines Revisited
Is he looking for the waiter at Racines? Pros Excellently sourced food, simply prepared Cons No wine list, high prices, no lunch special, lackadaisical service Although it took a few months to reach me, the word on the street was … Read More
Château Poivre
The poached egg with tomato coulis and cilantro cream. Photo © ParisUpdate.com Pros: More-than-decent food, good wines, pleasant service Cons: service a bit slow, decor needs a rethink Just back from a week in rural Ontario with some of my … Read More
Le Louchébem
Carving the slabs of roast meat at Le Louchébem. Photo © ParisUpdate.com Vegetarians should look away now. Le Louchébem is all about meat, and mostly about beef. Its signature dish is l’assiette du rôtisseur: three giant slabs carved off smoking … Read More
Botticelli, Bellini, Guardi… in Caen
“Portrait of Z. B. Marenzi” (1737) by Paolo Bonomino. Caen’s Musée des Beaux Arts must be my absolute all-time favorite provincial fine-art museum. Set in a contemporary building excavated out of the main courtyard … Favorite
Sardines & Chocolate
One of the most interesting bits of Paris is the stretch of Rue de Belleville between the Pyrenées and Jourdain Métro stations, which was my stamping ground for a while. It’s young and has a vibe and plenty of good … Read More