Aux Crus de Bourgogne

The restaurant hasn’t changed much since 1932.

Lovers of Paris don’t like the city to change, and while that may be a retrograde attitude, it is still extremely comforting to return many years later to a restaurant you used to love and discover that not only have the menu and decor remained basically the same, but also that the same friendly owner and staff are there to take good care of you.

In 1985, Francis Bouvier took over Aux Crus de Bourgogne, which had been founded by his grandmother in 1932. He basically left this beloved historic bistro – frequented by journalists, Resistance fighters, politicians (it was a favorite of André Malraux) and celebrities over the years – as it had been, with its mirrors, brass rails, dark wood paneling, grandfather clock, crystal chandelier, bronze statuettes and lace curtains. The waiters still wear the traditional uniform of white shirt, black bow tie and black apron.

Fresh homard (lobster) had always been a specialty of the house and still is, along with foie gras and hearty classic French dishes like coq au brouilly, magret de canard and beef stew, all made with fresh ingredients, well-prepared and served in generous proportions. Desserts included a strawberry/raspberry tart and crème brûlée.

It was also heartening to notice that while this place is still a favorite with Parisians of a certain age, it also attracts younger people, which gives us hope that it will still be going strong 10, 20 and maybe even 50 years from now.

Heidi Ellison

Aux Crus de Bourgogne: 3, rue Bachaumont, 75002 Paris. Tel.: 01 42 33 48 24. Open Monday-Friday. Fixed-price menu: €27. A la carte: €40-€45 for three courses without wine.

© 2005 Paris Update