Reading Jonathan Nossiter’s musings on wine, the universe and everything, reviewed here last week, and Hugh Johnson’s delightful A Life Uncorked, a Christmas gift, has made me eager to delve deeper into the dreadfully complicated world of wine, so I … Read More
Variety Meats: The Spice of Life The pretty, cozy interior of Ribouldingue, with mirrors to infinity. “Ribouldingue” is one of those yummy words that you can chew and chomp and turn over on your tongue like a well-polished oral worry-bead. … Read More
Through the Grapevine No shortage of wine here. With the smoking ban in French restaurants about to take effect on January 1, 2008, it is well worth praising a pioneer like Jacques Mélac, who has had a no-smoking policy for … Read More
Lessons from Across the Channel The meltingly tender pork. The Seven Stars pub in London’s Bloomsbury, just off Lincoln’s Inn Fields and facing the forbidding rear of the Central Law Courts, was founded when the first Queen Elizabeth was still … Read More
Salt of the Earth It’s not that Le Villaret is hidden away, but it certainly doesn’t get much passing trade, of that I can be certain. You have to want to find this quiet side street in the 11th arrondissement, … Read More
Eating Down Below Al least the basement is brightened with colorful murals. The French trade newspaper L’Hôtellerie Restauration, which advertises such well-known and admired produits du terroir as vacuum-cooked, ready-to-serve poached eggs, ready-made steak tartare preparation, and deep-frozen tutti quanti, … Read More
Pork and Beans Astier’s rustic decor has been refreshed. Ah, memories. I can still remember the sore throat I developed on my first visit to Astier over 20 years ago. There were about six of us in the upstairs room … Read More
Palatial Treat for The Palate A happy buzz under seahorse-shaped mini-chandeliers. Photo: Paris Update. Be prepared to make a grand entrance when you arrive at the Mini Palais, chef-à-la-mode Gilles Choukroun’s newish restaurant in Paris’s Grand Palais. You first have … Read More
Postmodern Blues No complaints about the food, but the service was a big negative. Photo: Bestrestaurantsparis.com “Y’all hurry back now” is one of my favorite Americanisms, but is not one we heard or are ever likely to hear at Café … Read More
Here’s the Beef Le Severo owner William Bernet stands proud in front of his menu. Simplicity and goodness rule at Le Severo. This is the place to go when you crave a big hunk of flavorful beef with a side … Read More
