Culture Wars

January 9, 2007 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive

Artistic Soul for Sale? Some critics of the French government accuse it of wanting to sell off the country’s artistic heritage, even the “Mona Lisa,” shown here being put into place in the Salle de la Joconde in 2005. Photo: … Read More

A Casaluna

April 25, 2006 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Corsican Exports Napoleon would probably have felt at home here. Two of Corsica’s most noted exports are Napoleon and food, and both serendipitously came together on a recent dinner date, when I combined a visit to the stupendously bad exhibition … Read More

Les Fernandises

April 11, 2006 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive

Heading South A neighorhood bistro serving southwestern dishes with a strong Spanish influence. Everything’s been turned upside-down in this neighborhood bistro, which used to serve excellent specialties from Normandy in a gloomy ambiance that made you wish antidepressants were served … Read More

Aux Crus de Bourgogne

March 21, 2006 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive

Resisting Time The restaurant hasn’t changed much since 1932. Lovers of Paris don’t like the city to change, and while that may be a retrograde attitude, it is still extremely comforting to return many years later to a restaurant you … Read More

Tokyo Eat

February 21, 2006 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive

Artful Dining Note: This restaurant is closed. Designer decor in a cavernous setting. A visit to the newly reopened Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris or its neighbor, the trendy contemporary art museum, the Palais de Tokyo, provides … Read More

Robert et Louise

January 10, 2006 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive

Dining in a Time Warp The lively scene at Robert et Louise. After hearing the distressing news that yet another Starbucks has opened in Paris – this one on the Rue Mouffetard – it was a relief to pay a … Read More

Gaya Rive Gauche

November 1, 2005 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive

Fun with the Whole Fish Christian Ghion decorated Pierre Gagnaire’s new restaurant, Gaya. Photo: Jacques Gavard Those who can’t afford to eat at superstar chef Pierre Gagnaire’s three-star restaurant in the Hôtel Balzac can now get an idea of what … Read More

Gaspard de la Nuit

September 27, 2005 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive

Solid Comfort A place for a cozy, quiet meal of reliable quality. When you’re in the mood for a calm dinner in a warm, cozy, old-fashioned setting with no DJ playing loud music or trendy French youth puffing away on … Read More

Café des Techniques

August 2, 2005 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive

Techniques for Eating Well A large model ship is the restaurant’s centerpiece. One of the loveliest places to have lunch in Paris is a well-kept secret. The Café des Techniques is housed in the Musée des Arts et Métiers (see … Read More