Cibus
A display of wild mushrooms at Cibus. I take Italian food personally: it reminds me of feasting on my grandmother’s slow-cooked, seasonal dishes surrounded by my family. For me, the secret of Italian cuisine … Favorite
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La Balançoire
The kids have got it right at La Balançoire. Pros: solicitous service, lighthearted atmosphere, generous spirit Cons: none La Balançoire, a new bistro in Montmartre, has a juvenile nostalgia theme going for it: one of the seats is a real … Read More
Au Passage
Not much has changed at Au Passage over the years except the food. Pros: happy atmosphere; delicious, inventive food; reasonable prices and sound levels; good service Cons: better ventilation needed in the kitchen It is highly unlikely that you would … Read More
Le Petit Canard
Duck, Duck, No Goose
Click here for a more recent review of this restaurant. A recent survey reported that the current favorite dish of the French is magret de canard, which came as a surprise to me, as it is served relatively rarely in … Read More
Chatomat
Was it the candlelight or the strong wine that made Chatomat seem so magical? THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED. Pros: cozy atmosphere, off-the-beaten-track location, delightful service, good gourmet sense, heady wine Cons: can’t think of a single one Parisian foodies’ … Read More
Pottoka
Pottoka: a Basque-flavored micro-bistro in the 7th. Pros: hearty meats; buzzy, neighborly atomosphere Cons: cramped dining; expensive à la carte On a rainy All Souls Day (“La Toussaint” in France) I sought refuge in a micro-bistro nestled on a handsome … Read More
Le Temps des Cerises
Old Montmartre mural at Le Temps des Cerises. Pros: aimiable atmosphere, reasonable prices, decent food, old-timey decor Cons: noisy and cramped, but who cares? It’s small, cramped, crowded and noisy. And, while the food is hearty, copious and tasty, it’s … Read More
Chalbens
Homey Femme-and-Pop - Bistro on the Edge of Town
The decor could be cooler at Chalbens, but the welcome couldn’t have been warmer. Pros: sincere, solid food; romantic atmosphere; impeccable service Cons: off-the-beaten-Métro track; cuisine and atmosphere lacking in edge Okay, I am no Anthony Bourdain, who ventures to … Read More
Kunitoraya II
Japanese flavors meet french traditions
Pros: charming interior, high-level cuisine, judicious mix of genres, fine selection of sake and wine, highly attentive service Cons: no natural wines, rather expensive, unremarkable dessert It seems like everyone in Paris has been talking about Kunitoraya II, piquing … Read More
La Vitrine & Garnier
Startling Surprises for Visiting Restaurant Critic
After a few months of life in a lively university town on the south coast of England, I was distracted by the siren call of Paris and decided, not entirely unwillingly, to heed it (and the request of my editor … Read More