The Hairdresser and the Absentee Owners A gramophone provides one large piece of the decor at Le Déci. You have to be careful with restaurants in Paris: they sometimes change owners without changing their names. Twice I have gone to … Read More
Stealth Dining The best way to clear up the mystery of the Clos du Vert Bois is to patronize it. What makes a restaurant click? Why do some take off instantly and others bomb for no apparent reason? Five years … Read More
More Light, Less Noise! The isolated tables in the back room are the best bet. Goethe’s last words were reportedly “Mehr licht” (“more light”), pretty much my first thoughts as I was seated by the friendly maître d’ in La … Read More
Warm-up Canter The simple decor is livened up with designer touches. Julie Ferrault is going places – that much is clear from her startup restaurant near the Rue Daguerre street market in Paris’s 14th arrondissement. At just 30, she must … Read More
Wine Whines A curious passerby peeks through the window of Racines. Racines has been getting an unusual amount of attention in the press since its relatively recent opening in one of the most picturesque arcades in Paris, where just about … Read More
No Mystery for Maigret The homey atmosphere is complemented by the friendly service and good cooking. I’m a trusting soul. At the prompting of a friend who had seen it warmly recommended in a free publication, I recently dragged my … Read More
Remembrance of Things Past Jadis’s Guillaume Delage is a chef to watch. The name Jadis has overtones of Proustian nostalgia, of things gone forever. Chef Guillaume Delage, who opened his restaurant scarcely a month ago, a stone’s throw from the … Read More
Where Chefs Dine The deep-fried langoustine tails were perfectly light and crisp. The restaurant Christophe, metaphorically speaking, had been sitting in the back of my mind for several months, but was recently foregrounded when Alain Pramil of the eponymous restaurant … Read More
Monsieur le Prince serves up beautifully executed French country cuisine. Photo: ParisUpdate.com Until last year, the venerable Chez Maître Paul dispensed Franc Comtois (Alsace, Jura) cuisine to a loyal band of locals. In the last couple of months, it has … Read More
Up, Up and Away! Dirigeable is an oasis in the urban desert of the 15th arrondissement. I don’t have a sweet tooth, as you may recall, and unless required to partake of dessert in the line of duty, I will … Read More
