Mamie Tevennec

July 20, 2010By Paris UpdateArchive

Mamie Tevennec, restaurant, paris

Better than the average crêpe.

I am quite a foodie, but I have a neighbor who beats me hands down. While I am prepared to hop on a TGV and travel for a fantastic meal, he literally flies …

Mamie  Tevennec, restaurant, paris

Better than the average crêpe.


I am quite a foodie, but I have a neighbor who beats me hands down. While I am prepared to hop on a TGV and travel for a fantastic meal, he literally flies around the world in search of the ultimate dining experience. To give you an idea, he has been to El Bulli seven times and ate at Noma (this year’s official “best restaurant in the world”) before most of us had even heard of it.

So when this guy’s eyes lit up the other day as he started telling me about the little crêperie that just opened up down the road, I felt it was my duty to test it. I set off along Rue Faidherbe to meet this highly praised Mamie (granny) Tevennec. I owe it to you and my journalistic integrity to tell you the whole truth: after a thorough investigation (i.e., I asked the guy in charge), I discovered that there is no Mamie Tevennec on the premises; the name just sounds nice and is properly Breton.

To get to the heart of the matter, at Mamie Tevennec you’ll find everything you expect from a crêperie and a little more. Their “credo” is not to revolutionize the crêpe world, but rather to stick to traditional recipes made with only the very best ingredients, including butter from Bordier and specially selected flours and andouille (Breton sausage)…

I started with a mix-and-match galette (savory crêpe) garnished with stewed onions, crème fraîche and bacon. Topped off with beautifully grilled slices of bacon, it was tasty and satisfying. To attain perfection, it could have been a little crispier.

I followed up with that classic of classic dessert crêpes, the beurre sucre (butter and sugar). Moist and drenched in butter on one end and paper thin on the other, it was real comfort food. In keeping with tradition, I accompanied it with a bolée (bowl) of cidre brut. The restaurant’s wine list is supposed to be good, but to tell you the truth, I didn’t even look at it.

Due to some connections with the Ile de Beauté, as Corsica is known, Mamie Tevennec also offers platters of delicious charcuteries, including coppa and lomo.

More good news: you can take many of these products home with you from the restaurant’s little shop selling charcuterie, smoked fish, Bordier butter and cheese, and more.

The friendly servers are more than happy to talk about their products, and children are made to feel welcome, which isn’t always the case in Paris.

I wouldn’t urge you to use your frequent flier miles to taste a Mamie Tevennec crêpe, but if you’re in the neighborhood…

Marie Tatin

Mamie Tevennec: 41, rue Faidherbe, 75011 Paris. Métro: Faidherbe Chaligny. Nearest Vélib station: Charonne Vallès. Tel.: 01 44 93 92 42. Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. One savory and one sweet crêpe and one bolée of cider: around €15.

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