Chez la Vieille Daniel Rose

Joyeux, Joli et Généreux

November 9, 2016 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive, Restaurants

After creating Spring, with its beautiful, starkly modern decor, American chef Daniel Rose seems to be in a mood for tradition. Aside from his successful venture in New York City, Le Coucou, he has acquired two Paris restaurants with resonant histories, retained their original names, and refreshed the decor and food, updating both but staying in the same vein as the original incarnation.

Gallina

Chicken and Cocktails: For Youth Alone?

October 28, 2016 | By Heidi Ellison | Restaurants

I had been to Gallina once before for an emergency late-night chicken sandwich (no other restaurants in the neighborhood were serving food at that hour), which was delicious and enjoyed on the terrace on a warm summer evening. When I recently read that they also offered macaroni and cheese – for me the ultimate comfort food – I knew I had to get back there soon. Chicken, especially rotisserie chicken, is another great comfort food. That is supposed to be Gallina’s specialty, but it also offers other kinds of meat, including pork and rabbit.

Mersea

Fast or Slow Fish? No Contest!

October 26, 2016 | By Heidi Ellison | Restaurants

I’m all for the concept of “quality” fast food and am glad that it is finally catching on in Paris. Not only has the American chain Five Guys, Barack Obama’s favorite burger joint, opened its first Paris branch (in Bercy Village), but there are also a number of homegrown efforts, including the admirable Osè for African food.