La Vague

Niceties of Nikkei Migrate to Paris

December 7, 2016 | By Heidi Ellison | Restaurants

Strange to say, but until fairly recently Paris’s restaurant scene was rather provincial. If you didn’t want French food, you had to settle for mediocre, dumbed-down Chinese, Japanese, Italian or Indian. Mexican was pretty much nonexistent. The occasional exception was for food from former French colonies in North Africa or Vietnam.

Quinsou

A Rare Bird Spreads Its Wings

November 29, 2016 | By Heidi Ellison | Restaurants

I thought I had mistaken the address on the restaurant-lined Rue de l’Abbé Grégoire (home to the excellent Cézembre) when I saw the beat-up facade of a café whose salad days were obviously long gone. But no, I was in the right place: a new restaurant called Quinsou.

Belle Maison

More Fish than Fowl, Bistro Excels at Both

November 16, 2016 | By Heidi Ellison | Restaurants

They’ve done it again. The youthful owners of the excellent bistros Le Pantruche and Caillebotte have spawned another success. La Belle Maison fully lives up to its name, offering fine food at reasonable prices with friendly service in a pleasant (although sometimes noisy) setting.