Gros

Feasting Off the Fat of the Land

April 13, 2016 | By Heidi Ellison | Restaurants

The name of this restaurant means “fat.” I am going to assume that it refers not to what will happen to those who dine there but to the feeling I had that I was living off the fat of the land while eating there.

La Cevicheria

The Infinite Adaptability of Raw Fish and Citrus

March 30, 2016 | By Heidi Ellison | Restaurants

The Cevicheria has taken over the generous ex-industrial spaces that used to house the restaurant Pan. Its pleasing decor includes a funky-chic pink wall that hasn’t been painted in years and a wall of climbing vines, complete with a blooming passion flower, big windows and interesting hanging light fixtures.

Le Clandé

Aiming for A Perfect Ten

March 23, 2016 | By Heidi Ellison | Restaurants

Friendly, attentive service in a restaurant can make an evening sparkle even if the food is less than outstanding. At Le Clandé the other night, we were spoiled on both counts: the service, provided by the chefs themselves, Chiho Kanzaki and Marcelo Di Giacomo, was totally adorable, and the food was great.

Elmer

A Meal as Colorful as a Patchwork Elephant

March 8, 2016 | By Heidi Ellison | Restaurants

A few copies of the French-language version of the children’s book Elmer the Patchwork Elephant by David McKee sit decoratively on the hat rail at the new restaurant Elmer in the third arrondissement, but according to our waiter, the name has nothing to do with the book and was arbitrarily chosen after long reflection.

Bol Porridge Bar

A Delightfully Grueling Lunch

February 10, 2016 | By Paris Update | Restaurants

When I heard there was a new restaurant in the 10th arrondissement specializing in porridge, I had to go right away. I love my breakfast oatmeal, sometimes sweetened and sometimes salted, but I had never thought of having it for lunch or dinner.