Pros Carefully sourced food Quiet, very local vibe ConsDitzy serviceMiles from anywhere It seems odd to name a restaurant after the only god reputed to have died in prehistoric times. Certainly, the temptation to start reaching for the mythological conceits … Read More
When you walk into La Marée, you get a sense of having entered another world. Outside is the heaving eighth arrondissement, with Rue Daru itself being home to the Orthodox Cathedral and other things Russian, plus a noticeable density of … Read More
“I hope you realize that your reviews are subjective?” queried a food-loving friend the other day. Duh. And you can also catch a place on a bad night. It’s one of the reasons why I don’t like reviewing poor meals. … Read More
Better than Happy Pills Down-to-earth food in a warm, friendly venue. If you have euros in your pocket that haven’t been exchanged from another currency (i.e., the dollar or sterling), the best place to be right now for eating is … Read More
Chipped-Formica Heaven The pot au feu was on its last legs. Paris has more restaurants named Chez Léon than you can shake a stick at, but one of them stands out from the crowd. Not for any reasons of culinary … Read More
Standout Antidote to Holiday Excesses During the Christmas and New Year holidays, the French traditionally live on a life-threatening diet of oysters, foie gras and smoked salmon, washed down with plentiful quantities of champagne and topped off with chocolates. During … Read More
Two for the Price of One Ober-Salé, like La Laiterie Sainte Clotilde, has the simplest of decors. Restaurants are funny places. It’s that ritual of communal eating, people getting together to masticate. On off days, the thought of what happens … Read More
Provincial Comfort in Paris A quiet, comfy setting for a thoroughly unpretentious taste of classic French cuisine. It’s been a busy week on the food front – that’s what happens when you have houseguests – with return visits to Ze … Read More
Pizza Party Pooper The Lu Lioni came with Italian sausage and red peppers. Reader reaction posted Oct. 31, 2008 Last week I took some time out for a long weekend in Florence to visit a friend who is soon to … Read More
Buttering Up Customers It’s not often that everyone in a party of four at a restaurant table (or boudoir-like dining area, but more on that later) goes into ecstasies over the butter, but that was the case the other night … Read More
