Les Petites Sorcières

May 13, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Arabian Weaves a Simple Spell From Michelin stars to simple corner bistro. And another erstwhile Michelin-starred chef opens up a no-frills bistro-style eatery. This time it’s Ghislaine Arabian, who, after a rapid exit from Ledoyen a decade ago, opened up … Read More

Les Cocottes de Christian Constant

April 29, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

High Table   If Les Cocottes is modeled on an Amiercan diner, it must be a very classy one. After our foray into Constant-land last year, I went back to give Christian Constant’s latest addition to his stable of restaurants … Read More

Madame Shawn Thai Cuisine

April 22, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Key Learning: God Is in The Thai Royal Basil I was so furious with myself. What kind of a food critic turns up for a return visit to a restaurant he wants to review without booking? And, what’s more, right … Read More

Au Clair de Lune

March 18, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

National Comfort Food A simple, cozy setting. On the sort of cold, blustery night we’ve been having in Paris recently, my thoughts turn to comfort food and my abiding passion for couscous. The vegetables in broth and the hunks of … Read More

Ze Kitchen Galerie

March 11, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Technicolor Treats The chefs work behind a window, like fish in an aquarium. Updated Nov. 12, 2008 As we pushed through the doors and entered the chic interior of Ze Kitchen Galerie, the warmth of chef William Ledeuil’s welcoming smile … Read More

Monjul

March 11, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Eye Candy for Food Lovers THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED Click here to read 2013 review. Readers may recall that the answer to the ultimate question about Life, the Universe and Everything in Douglas Adams’s The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the … Read More

Le Repaire de Cartouche

February 19, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Dickensian Hideaway Dark-honey-colored wood paneling and quaint murals. Named after Cartouche, a notorious highwayman operating in and around Paris at the turn of the 18th century, Le Repaire de Cartouche, some food bloggers allege, practices its own form of highway … Read More

Mon Vieil Ami

February 12, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Go East with Westermann The decor is clean and understated, with a half-timbered backdrop. In one of this restaurant’s previous incarnations, long, long before Mon Vieil Ami was launched four years ago by Antoine Westermann, the Michelin-starred (for his restaurant … Read More

Les Amis des Messina

February 5, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Sideways to the Messinas’ The name of this Sicilian restaurant – Les Amis des Messina – refers to the friends of the Messina family, and the slick PR on the restaurant’s Web site says that the first restaurant on the … Read More

L’Oxalis

January 15, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Mom-and-Pop Bistro Fusion The paneled walls don’t provide the ideal setting for the fine food and wine. As you turn into Rue Ferdinand Flocon in the further reaches of the 18th arrondissement, you are rewarded for the hike with a … Read More