May 13, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
Arabian Weaves a Simple Spell From Michelin stars to simple corner bistro. And another erstwhile Michelin-starred chef opens up a no-frills bistro-style eatery. This time it’s Ghislaine Arabian, who, after a rapid exit from Ledoyen a decade ago, opened up … Read More
April 29, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
High Table If Les Cocottes is modeled on an Amiercan diner, it must be a very classy one. After our foray into Constant-land last year, I went back to give Christian Constant’s latest addition to his stable of restaurants … Read More
April 22, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
Key Learning: God Is in The Thai Royal Basil I was so furious with myself. What kind of a food critic turns up for a return visit to a restaurant he wants to review without booking? And, what’s more, right … Read More
March 18, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
National Comfort Food A simple, cozy setting. On the sort of cold, blustery night we’ve been having in Paris recently, my thoughts turn to comfort food and my abiding passion for couscous. The vegetables in broth and the hunks of … Read More
March 11, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
Technicolor Treats The chefs work behind a window, like fish in an aquarium. Updated Nov. 12, 2008 As we pushed through the doors and entered the chic interior of Ze Kitchen Galerie, the warmth of chef William Ledeuil’s welcoming smile … Read More
March 11, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
Eye Candy for Food Lovers THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED Click here to read 2013 review. Readers may recall that the answer to the ultimate question about Life, the Universe and Everything in Douglas Adams’s The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the … Read More
February 19, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
Dickensian Hideaway Dark-honey-colored wood paneling and quaint murals. Named after Cartouche, a notorious highwayman operating in and around Paris at the turn of the 18th century, Le Repaire de Cartouche, some food bloggers allege, practices its own form of highway … Read More
February 12, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
Go East with Westermann The decor is clean and understated, with a half-timbered backdrop. In one of this restaurant’s previous incarnations, long, long before Mon Vieil Ami was launched four years ago by Antoine Westermann, the Michelin-starred (for his restaurant … Read More
February 5, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
Sideways to the Messinas’ The name of this Sicilian restaurant – Les Amis des Messina – refers to the friends of the Messina family, and the slick PR on the restaurant’s Web site says that the first restaurant on the … Read More
January 15, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
Mom-and-Pop Bistro Fusion The paneled walls don’t provide the ideal setting for the fine food and wine. As you turn into Rue Ferdinand Flocon in the further reaches of the 18th arrondissement, you are rewarded for the hike with a … Read More