Through the Grapevine No shortage of wine here. With the smoking ban in French restaurants about to take effect on January 1, 2008, it is well worth praising a pioneer like Jacques Mélac, who has had a no-smoking policy for … Read More
Salt of the Earth It’s not that Le Villaret is hidden away, but it certainly doesn’t get much passing trade, of that I can be certain. You have to want to find this quiet side street in the 11th arrondissement, … Read More
Eating Down Below Al least the basement is brightened with colorful murals. The French trade newspaper L’Hôtellerie Restauration, which advertises such well-known and admired produits du terroir as vacuum-cooked, ready-to-serve poached eggs, ready-made steak tartare preparation, and deep-frozen tutti quanti, … Read More
Here’s the Beef Le Severo owner William Bernet stands proud in front of his menu. Simplicity and goodness rule at Le Severo. This is the place to go when you crave a big hunk of flavorful beef with a side … Read More
Gluttony Rewarded Inventive dishes and top-quality ingredients in an enoteca decor. Finding the kind of Italian food in Paris that home-grown Italians would be proud of is no easy task. And I was especially eager to find some after a … Read More
Turkish Delight One of Derya’s amiable waiters on the run. Sometimes, after a very hard day in the coalmine, going home and making a meal can be quite a challenge. Usually there is at least some pasta, garlic and olive … Read More
Crystal-Clear Memories The smiling chefs keep an eye on the clientele and vice versa. Photo © Paris Update “It is an adult’s duty to remember,” opines the central character in Anita Brookner’s Brief Lives, mourning the loss of “primal spontaneity” … Read More
French Lessons Alain Ducasse may have a few things to teach his fellow Frenchmen about running restaurants. At the root of the word “benoît” is the Latin “benedictus,” which means “blessed” or even “happy.” This is an appropriate name for … Read More
Hot and Cold Reception, Pleasure on the Plate The Maison du Jardin doesn’t have its own garden, but it is located near one of Paris’s most beautiful, the Luxembourg Garden. If you are welcomed to La Maison du Jardin by … Read More
A Winner, Front and Back May 9, 2007 Gordon Ramsay, known for his 15 restaurants and very bad language, has an occasional TV series called “Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares,” in which the ubiquitous überchef is invited into a failing restaurant to … Read More
