If there were any doubt about Paris Update’s former restaurant reviewer Richard Hesse’s ability to sniff out a good restaurant, it can now be put to rest. On a visit to Paris recently from his new home across the Channel, … Read More
The restaurant Abri, whose name means “shelter,” literally provided refuge from the rain on a recent October evening, although I almost walked by its unassuming, brightly lit glass façade — from the street it looks more like a takeaway sandwich … Read More
Vilia takes liberties with the Italian classics, to great effect. Those who love classic home-style Italian dishes will adore the authentic, flavorful cooking at Procopio Angelo, reviewed here a couple of weeks ago, but those looking for more creative interpretations … Read More
The new restaurant recently opened on the Rue Oberkampf in Paris’s 11th arrondissement by Pierre-Sang Boyer, a 2011 “Top Chef” contestant, had garnered some good reviews, and I was looking forward to trying it out. Our meal there on a … Read More
When I heard that the hole-in-the-wall restaurant Procopio Angelo, which served up some of the best and most authentic Italian food in Paris, had closed, I was desolate. I would never again taste chef Angelo′s creamy burrata smothered with San … Read More
I have a sad tale to tell today. Last night I went to a restaurant called Coude à Coude near the Forum des Halles. The first time I went there a couple of years ago, our table was the only … Read More
Sometimes you’re just not in the mood for a long, drawn-out sit-down meal in a restaurant. One of my favorite places to eat in Paris is L’Avant Comptoir, the tiny sliver of an annex to star chef Yves Camdeborde’s restaurant … Read More
Pros: sharp, seasonal cuisine; wholesome proportions; intriguing wine list; friendly service Cons: rather trendy, characterless mise-en-scène As the annual Nuit Blanche festivities kicked off in more kinetic parts of the city, I ventured to a quiet bourgeois neighborhood near the … Read More
Yes to Oyster Soup,No to Foie Gras and Eggs A la Marguerite is comfortable, attractive and centrally located. Why this restaurant is called A la Marguerite (daisy) is a mystery. There is nothing flowery about it. It has a clean, … Read More
No Gluten, Just Glee for Gluttons The sushi-style bar in Noglu’s downstairs dining room. I have been wanting – with some apprehension – to try Noglu, Paris’s new gluten-free restaurant, ever since it opened. The perfect opportunity presented itself last … Read More
